A clip featuring the rusty team in bali going looney on their single fins shaped by rusty preisendorfer
Author: Surfers Village TV
Its just performance surfing with two less fins… BORING!
Sweet!!! Sub/friend me – I’m a producer here in LA…
so rad great job on the video
Finally…some good single fin surfing. There was a whole innere world of good surfing going on on single fins in the pre 3-fin days, but very few cameras or movies being made to capture it. Some of what few shapers there were were on a new brigade to conquer the problems of the lamer single fins of the times. The first problem, was that the wide points were too far forward, as was the majority of the rocker curve. Not to mention non rippable bottom contours and rails were all over the map. I learned with my skimboards in the early to mid sixties about the importance of the balance of these components in striving to do carving wraps and aerials into tube rides in the shore break at high tide, living at Newport Beach. minus the fin department, of course. I learned about that when we moved back to Hawaii in ’68, and my dad started making me surfboard versions of my best skimboards. The boards are basically what the pros are riding today, but they had 6 to7 inch high aspect glassed on single fins. FYI, a fin efficiency increases by roughly 20% with proper foiling and fillet tradition into the board, hence the need for less fin area, resulting in less drag, and more freedom, per holding power. So, Joe and I did a lot of experimenting with fins and the other main components. while we were doing that, there were various groups of very advanced surfers all striving to push the envelope as well as a bunch of know it all’s holding the mainstream back. The Steve Liss brigade started standing up on his knee boards in ’67, in the height of the classic hod dog long board era. and The anti establishment hippie era had just started with everything that goes along with it. Hair, acid, colors, Hendrix, and Cream…etc. people were ready to go wild. Hence, the tradition period, partially catapulted by the fast short Liss fishes. However, there was a movement going on in Hawaai also. Before Liss, in the balsa era, Joe Quigg was making mini gun pintails for some of the hot guys at ala moana in the mid to late fifties. Eventually that worked its way into Brewer copying everything Joe did and Reno and Gerry Lopez learned from Brewer, but took it to a whole new level. by 1969 they were making some of the most revolutionary boards and rising styles to date at Ala mo. Gerry’s were pintail mini guns, and Reno’s were narrower nosed, wp center, with really wide rounded squares tails. Both on boards as tiny as 5ft long. To help the tails from sliding too much Reno put little half moon side fins on his boards, the first 2+1’s. Then you had Aipa within a year taking it to a whole new level, with many local kids ripping new maneuvers on his boards. then there were the Aooga brothers from Santa Monica, on their 5ft. finless creations doing exactly what Derick hynd does. I witnessed their assault game on Maui. absolutely mind blowing maneuvers in small to medium tubes. So, all this is just focusing on the dawn of extreme high performance surfing in small to medium good waves. The thing that held back progress at times was the emphasis on big wave surfing which kept designs too conservative and gunny. I could go on for hours but I’ve got to get off of this rant. but great to see modern pros validifying single fins. No doubt modern 3 fins are unbeatable for huge high speed moves. But singles can give you a more intimate relationship with the subtleties of smaller tighter parts of a wave. Done well, single fins can give the rider a very different experience and set of options in riding, say, the same wave.
Thanks for this video. There are so few single fin short board videos out there. More please.
My single fin smokes this plank. polfer hull designs
Wow to all the haters. Say what you want but josh kerr was ripping on that pink single…
great surfers but would be nice to see some longer rides
typo, sorry, tradition, was supposed to be transition.
Its simple tri or just about any other fin make-up, Well, are LIterally And to me spiritually, well a DRAG. But what do I know. I rode triples for say about 14hrs max. couldn’t do it. Back to my single fin with sheer joy to follow.
pretty lame, rather soul surf a singe fin, but what do i know im pretty lame
i knew ppl would start doing this. i ride a single fin also and they definetly are under rated
kinda looks the same, i dont see a difference with singles and thrusters.
what am i supposed to look for? cause guys with other fin set up do the same mauneuvers,
Thanks now i look like a kook on my single fin.
lots of tiny bites but they wont show even half a wave ridden. looks like shit and what? everybody grows their hair out and ditch the red bull hats for the single fin video?
You call this good single fin surfing ? Lose all the stupid airs and tricks.